Sent: Wed 9/25/2002 11:06 PM
Ooo! This is Outback Livin'!

Hey there my sweet babies!

When we left off we were in Alice Springs, at the heart of Australia. We rented another car here to give the left handed lane driving another go. The worst is the directionals as they are located on the right side instead of the left so whenever we have to turn we usually end up washing our windows!

Our plan, to drive to Uluru, Kata Tjuta, King's Canyon, and through the West Macdonnell Range. It was a long ride to Uluru, nearly six hours from the Alice. The car was equipped with all our camping gear and we had loaded up on food. Along our drive we saw a sign that read " rabbit control demonstration" in the middle of nowhere, Australia. Jeff doesn't think that I would want to stop. Rabbits were introduced here in the1800's along with dozens of other non-native animals and plants by Europeans trying to make Australia feel more like home.

I am overwhelmed by the number of dead things on the road. (I could avoid it by bus, you couldn't see the road, but in a car you can't avoid it!) And it isn't just the huge dead creature in the middle of the road you have to avoid but the enormous condore sized, eagles that are feeding on it. They could take out a windshield for sure! I am constantly blessing the poor little animals and trying to encompass our car in positive energy to protect anything around us from harm! (Jen says "what a dork!") Out here a town consists of one shack that you might be able to buy some gas at, something to eat at, and maybe a place to sleep.

So far we have seen quite a range of dead things, quite amazing really. Dead Kangaroos (one about every 20 meters!), birds, cows, snakes, koalas, emus, and get this one, camels! It was really starting to get me down and I was thinking that Uluru better be pretty damn amazing to account for all this death! When we got to the campsite, we had just enough time to set up and to run up to a lookout and catch a flaming sunset over a flaming landscape. On one side was this sunset on the next was a full moon rising and in between was the lovely Uluru glowing in the distance. I felt truly blessed to be there.

We woke at dawn to watch the sun rise over Uluru, then hiked 10 kms around the base of it. That is one big rock! There were sacred sites along the track that you couldn't go to or photograph. Off limits to Piranpa (non Aboriginal people)! There was much rock art, thousands of years old, and lovely rock formations towering overhead. The most amazing part was watching it change as the sun's position changed, casting long shadows. It must be absolutely amazing during the wet season when water collects on the top and cascades in pools all the way to the base.It is hotter than hell here now and there is definately no water. You can hike up to the top of Uluru via a very steep grade and a chanin railing, about an hour and a half hike. It looks like fun to climb. Jeff did, I stayed down because it is an extremely spiritual place to the Aborigines and they don't want anyone to climb on it other than the Aborigines for thier cerimonies. It is so strange, the government stole this land, then the government gave it back but are 'managing' it for the Aborigines. Doing a pretty shitty job of it too, might I add and they write it all off as if this was what the Aborigines want. It's a huge issue here. Sad.

After making lunch with a hungry dingo eyeing us, we headed to Kata Tjuta and hiked through the Valley of the Winds then up to the Walpa Gorge. We hiked about 24 kms at around 100 degrees. Exhausted! We wrapped up the day with an amazing sunset over Uluru and the full moon 180 degrees away again. Needless to say, we slept like the dead that night!

Next morning, woke about 45mins before the sun (we're getting good at this!) One more sunset over Uluru. On our way we saw a couple of cats. Now you may wonder why I would mention this, but the truth is they are another big issue over here. My favourite, was a sign I saw of sweet little kittens peeking out of a rainforest backdrop and it said 'Danger! Ferral Cats!' It's hilarious but I guess they are quite a problem to the small rodents and birds of the country. There are loads of other ferral animals, all those introduced to the area actually. Ferral camels, cats, dogs, fox, rabbits, horses, goats, etc.

Later we drove to King's Canyon National Park and took an absolutely spectacular rim walk around it, we could have spent hours more doing it but we were already both showing signs of heat exhaustion.

Next day, awoke before sunrise again, this time by a huge flock of Galahs, all pink and grey and squaking up a storm! We listened to the radio on our way to the West Macdonnell Range. One of the two stations, a host who just has people call him up and shoot the shit about anything and everything! They just talk, it's like you are eavesdropping on a conversation and can't relate to any of it! The other station, hosted the World Baked Bean Gargleing Championship! Can you believe it! We listened to the whole event! The record is 48 minutes of baked bean gargleing! This year it was won by a representative of the Northern Territory Parliment!

New note: Aboriginals don't understand our preoccupations with time, money, and possesions. They live free and don't collect or stay in one spot long. They are a nomadic people. People hear complain often about how the Aboriginals destroy the government houses given to them (smash out windows, rip up floors for firewood, etc. Thier culture live out of doors!) and how they don't participate in the work force. But they don't stop to think about the huge cultural differences. They just expect them to be the same as they are. The "Long Grasses" as some of them call themselves just ask to be left alone. That is about all I have to say about that for now, sooo...

When we got to the West Macdonnell Range we hiked up the Simpson Gap. More stunning rock formations with nasty standing water that was actually looking quite appealing in the hot, dry, heat! We were in search for Rock Wallabies and Perrenti Lizards which can get to be 2-1/2 meters in length!

Next the Standley Chasm. It was an incredibly tall rock face, with a small gap coming through the sheer walls. The sun made the rock positively glow bright oranges. Reminds me a bit of Arches N.P. We hiked quite a while, deeper and deeper into the Chasm till we were shimmying across slippery logs over deep stagnent water and scaling rocks that threatened to toss us down into the chasm floor! We suddenly got a bit worried about where we were putting our little paws, the Death Adder lives in this area, and though I don't know what it looks like, I don't think that we would want to mess with anything with such a name! So, we turned back, though we would have enjoyed spending a bit more time there. We were on the sun's clock.

The next stop turned out to be where we camped. It was called Big Water Hole. The weather was fry pan hot and dry and this spot has this amazing gorge to swim in! We jumped in for a frigid swim, there are actually signs here warning about the temps of the water being so cold! After setting up camp in this serene location we lay on a sleeping bag and watched the stars!

As we were constellation peeping, a German girl came up to us and invited us to come join herself and friends for a bit of bush bread they had made. It is made of self-rising flour, salt, and water and all you have to do is mix it up and lay it on a flat iron or hot rock in a camp fire. Very hearty, a bit dry but good, and it only takes about 15 minutes to make! While nibbling on the bread, more commonly called a damper, she told us they had learned to make it up in Darwin where they had gone on an Aboriginal guided tour of the Outback. They learned about and ate many traditional foods including Green Ants, which you crush in your hand, eat, and taste like lemon. It was also used medicinally. Honey Ants, which have a large amber, clear back end which is filled with honey and you eat them too! They speared turtles and duck for dinner. We have seen all these creatures allready on our travels, but I wasn't going to eat any of them. When I met up with the Green Ant, it bit me on the tit and left a very big red spot! That night we fell asleep to the sound of Didgeridoo and bats chirping overhead while they fed.

Next morning, I woke about a half hour before the lazy sun ( I am getting better than she is!) to the sound of bees buzzing and heavily scented honey fragrances coming form surrounding bushes. Lovely. I was the first one up in the camp, so I hiked back to the water which was glassy and still. I found a canoe that some sweet person had left out for the use of everyone! As I rowed out, all I could hear is chirping birds and the gentle lapping of the cold water against the rocks. A slight breeze pulled me through to the other side and I sat quietly looking for wildlife. The owner of the canoe came along shortly in a second one and joined me for some conversation. He spends all his free time, I find out, running around in the nude over on this side of the gorge! Very nice little Nature Boy! I saw my first Rock Wallaby, a small female. I couldn't believe how agile they are, bouncing over rocks with great speed. I went back to camp to wake Jeffrey but he was up and wanted to go out in the canoe after I told him of my experience. So back we went, more conversation with our new friend Daryl and more Rock Wallabies!

Once we got back to Alice, we went to a Digeridoo Performance. Pretty good. It combined Didge, Lots of Percussion, and Photographs of the Outback.

Now we are in Adelaide (South Australia), after a long and exhausting journey by bus down here. We got on the bus at 10:30am in Alice. It was supposed to be a 20hour ride. But the bus broke down about 45 minutes from Alice Springs, broken fuel pump! So we all unloaded the luggage, waited for the new bus to arrive, reloaded the luggage and gladly got back on the stinky bus and out of the desert heat!

The bus drivers are great out here. The last trip we took, two people were broken down on the side of the road, they ran out of gas. The bus driver picked them up and drove them to town ( a considerable distance away!) Of course, people would be risking thier lives being left out here to long, especially in the summer. The bus also part-times as local mail couriers out here. Most of our stops in the Outback are to deliver bags of mail and packages!

So, today we are in Adelaide. We got to a hostel, got a total run around from a guy trying to sell a backpacker stay to us (He was English, not an Aussie) He totally misrepresented himself. I think he thought that because we were so tierd he could snow us, but we were a bit fiesty after the ride and we got our money back and went elsewhere, we have been napping most of the day to make up for the lack of available sleep on the bus.

Okay, I am almost out of breath! "I don't believe it" you might say. But it is true! You all just caught me on a worn out day! I LOVE YOU ALL BUNCHES AND BUNCHES AND MISS YOU EVERY DAY!

Take care, and hope to hear from you all soon.

Rat Bastard!

Sent: Thu 9/19/2002 3:17 AM
We are in the heart of Ozland!

Hey there loved ones!

Man, do I miss every last one of you daily!

When we last saw our travelers they were up on North Queensland heading towards Cape Tribulation, I do believe.....

We had to constantly remind eachother to "stay on the left hand side!" of the road while driving. We drove up to Mossman Gorge, which was about the smallest Gorge I have ever seen! and then through the spectacular Daintree National Park. What a lovely rainforest hike that was. We saw a bunch of scratching in the soil, mostly around the roots of trees. (Tracker Rebel) It was the Green Possums trying to find Witchita Grubs, which is also one of the traditional Aboriginal foods. The local tribe here is the Kuku Yulangi. Each tribe uses different figures and signs that are distinct to that tribe, apparently a person educated in such things could look at a piece and name the region and tribe it came from, it is like a signature. Each tribe uses the same colours to paint with, however, Blue, to represent water. Red to represent blood. White to represent bone, and Yellow to represent the sun.

Little side track: Interesting observation (so far as Rebel is conserned!) The Aussie's love to create huge oversized road side attractioins of every type. Each town seems to use a monstrous something or other to represent itself at its entrance. Kind of reminds me of Castroville "home of the giant artichoke". So far we have seen the giant clam, giant crab, giant prawn, giant banana, giant crustacean, giant mango...It's the wierdest thing I have ever seen. They all have to be absolutely huge! I will keep you updated on what else we come across, don't you worry!

We went to Daintree Village and bought tickets to go on a Daintree River Cruise. We saw four big crocs, a couple of green tree snakes mating ( I tried to get the guide to get them and bring them in the boat, he didn't go for it!), a water dragon, and dozens of crazy birds. The guide told us that a couple of weeks ago he saw a croc attack a full grown cow on the water's edge and do a full death roll! He also said that after a meal like that a croc doesn't have to eat for up to a year after! They are a real danger here. Afterwards we drove up to Cape Tribulation, which was one of the most beautiful and desolate places that I have ever been to.

After a good nights rest, I woke up with the sun and hiked out to Cape Tribulation Point along a completely empty beach accessible only at low tide. Hiking by myself I became a bit nervous about crocs because I crossed a couple of tributaries and there were mangroves everywhere. While worrying about that on one side, I looked to my left hand side and noticed a dog in an aggressive stance, staring me down and realized it was one of the rare (and very dangerous!) black dingoes of the area. I am one of the first people to walk up to random dogs to play with them, but these dogs scare the crap out of me, they have torn people to shreds, and they are just plain mean looking!

Anyways, got past that situation, sweating bullets, and then proceeded to collect sweet Aboriginal treats that I had learned about the previous day to bring back to Jeffrey for breakfast! We had learned about them from the river cruise man. There was these large red berries that taste like lollies and hibiscus flowers which blossom and fall of the branch in one day. Though sometimes you can find a pink or better yet a red one that is that colour because it has managed to stay on the branch longer and has a higher sugar content because of it. We nibbled on them when Jeffrey woke up and luckily we didn't die because there must be a billion red berries in this rainforest and I only saw them from the boat! Anyways, they were tasty.

As soon as we got back, it started to downpour like only a rainforest could. We had scheduled a horseback ride that we couldn't change but it cleared right before we left. We had a lovely 2-1/2 hour ride through fertile, lush rainforests and along open, pristine beaches, we got to ride in the surf! We rode around croc infested estuaries, huge strangler fig trees, and took a refreshing dip in a little swimming hole when we stopped for afternoon tea. Did I mention that Jeffrey put down that he was an expert rider when he thought he put down beginner? First time English style too! By the way, that was how they picked his horse!

In the afternoon we hiked along the Maarja Boardwalk through wet mangroves and dense, dripping rainforest! Delicious! Afterwards we visited the "bat house" which informs the public and houses a few injured fruit bats (flying foxes). They were so sweet, but quite stinky little bastards! Thier fur was as soft as a new duckling and thier wings felt like a warm extra thin layer of latex. They love any kind of fruit they can get hold of, but they are a problem to many local farmers and the bats, unfortunately, get shot at often.

Side track: We were told that as Americans (this coming from an Englishman, mind you!), have the most to fear from the crocs. His explanation...Americans are pampered and we are like veal for the crocs! If I see him again, I might push him into an estuary! (at least something loves the American!)

Next day, we took a long hike down the beach, rock hopping over rock outcroppings. Our directions were..."hike till you get to Emagen Creek". Now, mind you, there were half a dozen small creeks coming across the beach, none with signs! You were just supposed to recognise it! You have to stay away from every stream crossing because that is where the crocs like to hang. We finally found the unmarked trail and hiked further into the rainforest. It was magical, the rain showers (they are relentless!) never cease but the air is sultry, the sun is shining hot and the showers turn off and on again every five minutes. Then you steam to a near dry and it rains again. Protection can be found under the great rainforest canopy, leaves as big as unbrella. Even when it stops raining, it is difficult to tell within the forest as it continues to drip on you! While tip-toeing around trying to avoid crocs, Taipans, and killer spiders on our tiny path we were the luckiest souls on earth to see two male Cassowaries. This one species only exists up in this small area and there are only 49 in existance! I gasped as I saw them, they are as big as an ostrich and look slightly similar except the males have skin that is electric blue from thier neck up. Striking and very fast! Afterwards a frigid skinny dip in the rain in crystal clear Emagen Creek, Yes, the same one that is infested with crocs about 10 minutes downstream. Apparently it isn't salty enough for them where we swam! Balls the size of Texas, I tell you!

The YHA that we stayed at for those few days was lovely, a series of cabins in the rainforest. You can't see one from the other because the foliage is so dense around it. All are connected by a meandering concrete path that leads to a bar and bistro down by the sea. On one evening scamper in the rain, we saw big Cane Toads. We have been told that if you lick the back of thier head you will either die or hallucinate for a while! (Didn't Homer Simpson try that once?!) Anyways, we think we will refrain from licking any toad head. You have to wonder how one discovers a thing like that!

Early the next morning, we drove from Cape Tribulation down to Cairns and then took a bus back to Townsville, so we could start our journey inland.

Next day we had a 12 hour bus journey!Youch! Then landscape changed tremendously, as it usually does in such a distance. We left sultry, lush rainforest, dripping with moisture and traveled over the Great Dividing Range into open lands with stunted trees and grasslands. There is no true green here like that of the rainforest jungles. All the greens have a bit extra blue or yellow in them. The landscape looks rather bland until it decides to contrast itself to the rich siennas and ochres of the soil. When this happens, you realize that there are dozens of different colours and textures everywhere! The land is now peppered with tall termite mounds made of the bright red soil. I want to photograph them at sunset or sunrise when everything absolutely glows!

We finally arrived in Mt. Isa which is a sleepy little town, though considerably larger than the other so called "towns" we came through to get there. (they consisted of a couple of run down shacks and a small and usually shut down store!) Mt. Isa is known primarily as one of the largest silver and lead mining towns in the world and during our dinner we could feel the explosions going off under ground! As confirmed by the owner of the hostel, I think that we will see all we need to see of this town in one day.

But it took less than that even! We were going to take an underground mine tour, I thought it might make for an entertaining photograph of us in coveralls and mining equipment, but the tours had been discontinued. So, we hiked around town and head out to Alice Springs tonight by bus. We did stop by the museum for the Royal Flying Doctors. They brought health care to all of Australia. The maximum wait? Only two hours anywhere in Australia.

Even the most rural of areas! Caught a 14 hour night bus to Alice Springs at 7:45. Talk about a tough trip! On our way to the bus station, I saw a group of nude Aborigines on thier way out of a filthy, polluted river they had been bathing in. It is so strange how they live on the outskirts of town, won't look you in the eye, seem completly ghost like in the surrounding city and people. This is a product produced by stealing of Aborigine children from thier tribes and families and forcing them to find Jesus and live in a culture that wasn't thier own. They seem so lost. As I believe anyone would be in the same situation. A broken culture, unforgivable.

The roads we drove on to Alice were bright red, very straight and super tiny. When a trailer truck came in the opposite way the bus had to pull off the road into the dirt to allow it to pass!

We got very little sleep on the bus and spent most of today recouping! I did, however, catch an amazing sunrise this morning, a bright red streak across the horizon, and then the warming glow of the sun across the landscape. Yum! Lots of Kangaroos along our way and the road definately takes a toll on them! We are now in Northern Terrritory. Alice Springs is at the heart of the country, smack dab in the middle. There is a much larger Aborigine population here. I can't help but feel out of place among them, almost shameful, as if I am intruding.

Okay, my loves, I am off once again, a few days coming up of outback exploration, Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Promises to be spectacular.

Got the tip off to the possible theme for the Stab Halloween Party, ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS! Craving a jug of beer with all you stabbies at Gus's and subathing at Pirate's. Miss my snuggle time with Austin and Jordan, only a month to go buddies! Can't wait for martini's with big f-ing pimentos with my sissies. Sending out a big Happy Anniversary to my folks and to Kris/Josh. And plenty of extra snuggles for the rest of you when I get my grubby paws on you next time!

Much love as always, Rebel

Sent: Sat 9/14/2002 9:18 PM
Oz!

Hey there loved ones,

When we last left our super heros were on there way up to Townsville....

The weather is definatly getting warmer up here. Down right sultry. In addition the sun is getting stronger, I feel like a roast all day long. I can feel myself baking! Sunscreen goes on about three times a day! It took about 4 1/2 hours to get to Townsville via bus. I think my favourite thing about the bus rides is all the wildlife that we see along the way. We saw great big termite mounds everywhere, 2 black swans on a lake and emu! The town was full of beautiful colonial architecture but it was pretty much shut down when we got there on a Sunday afternoon. Strange.

We took a ferry over to Magnetic Island the next day from Townsville. When we got there we rented scooters to tool around the island! We hiked all over the island, stopped to take warm swims in the turquoise waters and lie on the white sands. The island was used during WWII to keep the invading Japanese off. Though it was never actually needed. We hiked up to the old forts and gun stations. After that hike we rode down to a lovely Mango farm and sampled homemade sorbets and icecreams (mango and macademia!). We had a lovely lunch withing a mangrove at the end of a boardwalk on the farm then we walked back through the mango groves and cracked open a fresh coconut! mmmm!

The scooters were our first time driving around by ourselves in Australia! We sincerely try to stay on the correct side of the road but every once and a while we slip up and scare the crap out of ourselves and the other guy! We nearly killed ourselves cutting a truck off! More lovely little sleepy koalas. Beautiful curtain fig trees everywhere, and the water is warm as a bath. We are so happy that we aren't here through Stinger season. Imagine being here during the summer heat (and it is hot as hell during the winter!) and not being able to swim!

Next day, we traveled six hours up the coast to Cairns (pronounced Cans) by coach through endless sugar cane fields, banana and mango plantations, and sugar and salt refineries.

While in Cairns, we decided to get our scuba certifications, we are at the Great Barrier Reef! We decided to become Advanced Divers so we could do deeper dives (30 meters). The first two days were in the stinky pool but we followed that up by four days on a ship out at the reef! We woke every morning at 5:30am for our first dive, our second was at 8am, three dives by noon! Followed by a 4pm, and a night dive with torches! The sea life was amazing, Giant Sea Clams, Giant Sea Tortoises, and a large octopus that changed color and texture as it slinked over the coral reef. We also saw our first dangerous shark (reef sharks were nothing to worry about). It was during our first night dive, we saw green eyes and it was a shark, he didn't seem to want anything to do with us and stayed pretty far away. During our first open water training they shot an excellent video of our lessons, we got one so remind us to show you all when you see us, it's a real kicker! We bought underwater cameras so we could photograph everything on the reef, the sea turtles were definately my favorite, that was all I really wanted to see. I swam right up to them and pet there shells!

Our last day on the boat we had two lovely morning dives and wanted to go on our third and final dive but we had gone too deep (25 meters) for too long (26minutes) and combined with our first dive we were off the charts when we did our calculations. Not good, but a good lesson! We couldn't go back in due to the likelihood of decompression sickness. Live and learn. Once we got off the boat it took us at least two days to stop swaying the waves!

September 11th, and I find comfert in the fact that we are in Australia and not in our own country. I find our recent actions disgraceful. Here in Cairns, we thought it was a public holiday. But we found out it was a parade in recognition of the September 11th event of last year. Deeply touching.

Interesting observation...We walked by a sign on a chalkboard in front of a cafe one morning, we both looked at as we walked by, stopped and walked back to be sure of what we read! Went something like this...."This cafe is reluctantly up for sale due to my wife not taking the pill" Gotta love that! Do you think the guy was mad?

Anyways, arranged for a 4X4 rental to go up to Cooktown which is up North and only accessible with a 4X4. Jeffrey haggled with a couple of companies to try to get us a deal, got them down to $75 bucks a day (around fourty american). Little did we know that the two companies we were dealing with were relatives! When we got there to pick up the vehicle the next morning they were pissed and had rented it to someone else as a result! You can't be slick here, you won't get away with it! So, Cooktown was out, but we found another company to rent us a car & saved a bunch of money not getting a 4wd.

First we drove to the scenic railway to ride it up to a town called Kuranda. The railway was constructed from 1882-1891 and stole all its land from the local tribes as usual. Kuranda was mostly a place to shop, very tiny town, and we found a yummy little Hare Krishna Center to have lunch at. The markets sold local crafts and I saw against my will, Kangaroo skins including tail. Not very nice for the little vegan. We took the skyrail down which was magnificent. The Cableway hangs above the treetops of the dense rainforest with breathtaking views of Barron Gorge and the ocean beyond. Afterwards we went to the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park. They educate the public on what has happened since the modern world descended upon a 40,000 year old culture, the spiritual beliefs of the Tjapukai people, and there traditions like dance and songs, didgeridoo, bush foods and medicines. It was a real relief to see this issue finally addressed somehow, rather than ignored. These people were being slaughtered and raped in the mid 70's and no one talks about it and the aboriginal culture seems nonexistant except for the products sold by the white man.

Okay, on that note, I am nearly out of time. Tune in next time folks. I love you all. Family take care and please keep me in touch about how Trevy is doing, I get worried when I don' t get updates. Trevy, I love you with all my heart.

Take care my loves,

Rebecca